Thứ Tư, 19 tháng 12, 2007

The philosophy of Hue cuisine


Dishes that are identified with the former imperial city of Hue number over 1,000. Most preferred, however, are beef rice noodle, rice cake, rice flan, rice cake with shrimp, mussel rice, grilled meat rolls, and lotus seed sweets. The culinary culture of Hue is noted for its fineness, elegance and taste. For this reason it stirs passions among gourmets.

Each and every woman of Hue can be regarded as an artist when she prepares the city's specialties. She presents the dish like a piece of art that pleases the eye of the diner. Then, thanks to many spices she has added, he can enjoy its good smell and taste. Maybe it is because of this use of spices that Hue's cooks have called spices their coloring ingredients.

Aside from their attractive colors, Hue dishes captivate the eye of diners by their fine trimming and arrangement of ingredients. In a plate of fresh vegetables to be taken with banh khoai are green lettuce leaves arranged underneath slices of ivory white unripe banana, looking like moon crescents, and thin slices of carambola or fig.

A dish of rice cooked on lotus leaves can give the diner an impression of something rustic but at the same time royal: the white rice grains with tiny cubes of shrimp and meat wrapped inside the lotus leaf and surrounded by lotus petals. Even a very popular dish of Hue folk, the com mo cau (rice on an areca spathe) to be eaten with ruoc (shrimp paste), is also presented artistically: the white grains of rice are wrapped in a freshly cut piece of areca spathe and have the smell of areca fruit.

The small white rounds of banh beo with purple fried shrimp bits look like flower petals with red pistils in the middle; the rectangular banh nam with cubes of shrimp meat stuffed inside that are placed on a dark green banana leaf; the banh ram is displayed in pairs of white and yellow pieces; or the bot loc, so transparent that the red-colored shrimp inside can be seen. They all look so beautiful that one may dare look at them but not dare to put them to one's mouth for fear of spoiling such a masterpiece of art!

Hue's attention to detail is reflected in the way meals are presented on the table. Tableware must be set along with the sauce to be taken with the dish. Most Hue foods are well arranged because eating, too, is an art: "Eat a little but in detail."

The culinary art of Hue has important steps: the selection of raw materials (fresh and nice-looking), which are well prepared and well spiced (not too sweet but hot); and set out well on the table. This last is because foods must show the harmony of colors and of "yang and yin."

Hue's dishes were originally for ordinary people; they are simple meals. But when they were introduced to the royal court they became sophisticated and fine. Take the che hot sen (lotus seed sweet) for instance. The small and tender seeds of lotus flowers from Tinh Tam Pond (inside the citadel of Hue) are wrapped inside the pulp of longan and cooked with candy sugar.

Com hen (mussel rice) is a popular dish that all Hue people think of when away from their homeplace. The rice is ordinary, but with it in a small bowl there are many spices and herbs, for example, mentha and banana leaves, and the fine tasting sauce prepared from mussel soup.

The most popular dish from Hue is bun bo Hue. It can now be found everywhere in Vietnam and abroad. Yet, it is not easy to prepare a pot of Hue beef soup. The soup must be clear (no fat flakes) and colored with spices such as vegetable oil, red pepper powder, and chopped lemon grass. The stew of meat, beef and pork (pig's legs), and meat paste is simmered until the meat is well done and tender. It is to be taken with some strong smelling shrimp paste.

Wherever they go, the people of Hue look for the food that originated in their home-place. Though the food is popular, it is elegant and tasty.

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